Spending Yom Kippur in Jerusalem is something I believe every Jew should do at some point in their life. It was the best Yom Kippur I have ever experienced, and unlike anything I have seen in the states. As a group we made our way to Jerusalem the day before to have a series of seminars in the hotel we stayed at. I started out attending Torah Yoga in the morning, which was really great. It was very relaxing and a great start to my Yom Kippur holiday. We then had a pizza brunch, which was yummy-- I love the pizza seasoning in Israel. My next lecture was on how the torah aligns with AA groups and other scientific groups to help people get rid of their addictions. It was very interesting and our group brought up so many great thoughts, my only problem is that we didn’t have nearly enough time. The lecture was great though, and I saw a connection I had never really seen before. The last seminar was about the secular Jews in Israel and how they all observe Yom Kippur in some way. Jared, a lecturer we had seen before, told us all about how the holiday was called “hag hafaniim” the bicycle holiday. This was because the streets would literally all shut down and people, especially kids, would ride their bikes and rollerblade all throughout the street. After his talk, I couldn’t wait to see the holiday in action. I quickly showered and got ready for our last meal at 3:30. It was so early I was barely even hungry, but I ate as much as I could in order to prepare for the fast.
I went to Kol Nidre services that evening at the HUC. They were very similar to the ones at home, except with an amazing view of the old city right outside. The whole wall by the bema was a glass window facing the old city. The location and view was breathtaking and made the service that much more meaningful. The songs and prayers were things I recognized and I really enjoyed the service. I missed going to services on Rosh Hashanah, because even though I am not very religious, I like going to services and hearing all the songs and prayers I’m used to. The sermon for Kol Nidre was about fear and not letting it prevent you from having a life. Fear, he pointed out was a natural instinct necessary to keep us alive, but beyond that it actually harms us (both emotionally and physically). Throughout his sermon, I couldn’t help but think about how Israelis are really just not fearful about obvious dangers are in. He pointed out they are more afraid of being last in line, which while comical is also true. They live each day for what’s it’s worth and don’t worry about things they can’t control. That is really the way everyone should be living, not afraid of things they can’t control. Looking out over the old city, hearing the sermon, all the songs and prayers, I felt no fear-- I was able to put myself in the mindset of an Israeli, where you somehow know even though so many people are out to get you- everything will be ok. We had been warned so much over the past few weeks about what to do in case of emergencies and all the places we aren’t allowed to go for security reasons, I needed this reminder, this time to reflect, this time to really let go of all my worries and relax.
After services I walked around with a bunch of my Otzmakim, seeing the car-less streets and the kids starting to ride their bikes, scooters, and rollerblades all over the street. It was so happy and joyful, so unlike the vibe I would have expected on this Yom Kippur eve. It was refreshing though, the kids looked forward to this day, much like American kids look forward to Christmas. They get a huge free terrain to ride and play and spend a day and night being kids. I could see all the adults walking around as well, some even biking or rollerblading themselves, and everyone just seemed so at peace and reflective on the year, which honestly is what I’ve learned Yom Kippur is really about. In the states, the essence I’ve seen is that you fast to atone for your sins, and that it is a day of pain and praying for forgiveness as if this was your punishment for sinning all year. Here in Israel that wasn’t the motive at all. While most adults were indeed fasting (even many of those who label themselves as secular), they didn’t view it as a punishment, more as a personal time of reflection for themselves (and to god if religious).
After walking around with my friends from Otzma, I met up with my friend from birthright, Inbar. While waiting for her to meet me with her apparently slow dog, I made some friends with people in the middle of the street. A little boy lost a wheel from his tricycle, and naturally I stopped to help him. I started breaking out my beginning Hebrew, using a lot gestures and made up words, until his father came and started speaking in perfect English. As it turned out the family is from Arkansas, but has been in Israel for the last few years. I ended up speaking to a bunch of other people who were either living in Jerusalem or there visiting/volunteering. I was amazed at how easy it was for everyone to get along and just start chatting about everything from where you’re from to the political situation in Israel and whether or not a god exists, all while standing in the middle of intersection- literally. We also saw a group of guys come and camp out in a tent in the middle of the intersection, right in front of a traffic light. It was too funny for words, and there is no way I would see that anywhere else. Inbar arrived somewhere in the middle of our conversations, before most of the heavy conversation, which was cool because she had a cool perspective on many of the issues. I have so much respect for everything she has been through with army and life in general as an Israeli. Afterwards, we walked around the empty streets, talking, catching up, and me occasionally attempting to practice Hebrew. It was fun just to hang out and walk down the streets of Jerusalem without all the regular hustle and bustle.
In the morning I walked around the old city of Jerusalem with some fellow Otzmakim, which in the Jewish parts was totally shut down, but the Armenian quarter looked as busy as ever- especially with the huge group of Mexicans I saw touring around. Speaking of tour groups, we had a big group of Indonesians staying at our hotel that didn’t completely understand the significance of Yom Kippur, and certain Jewish items like a kippah (they thought it was a cool hat). This really bothered some of the people on my trip, but it didn’t even faze me. I was in way too good of a mood to care. Anyway my walk around the old city was really great but tiring. We were so surprised at how peaceful everything was around the city. Seeing an array of white clothes, kids playing soccer in an alley, people hanging out after a synagogue was a great way for me not to think about the fact that I hadn’t eaten anything all day. The catch with no food though, is no physical energy, and after walking up a bunch of steps, I was tired and went back to the hotel for a little nap.
After my much needed nap, I headed back to the HUC for a concluding service, which was just as wonderful as the Kol Nidre one. I had spent the day fasting, reflecting, enjoying the beautiful day outside, thinking about my year, my life, and where I am right now. I think for the first time I really captured the essence of Yom Kippur. We then broke our fast with delicious challah waiting outside the door as we walked back to the hotel to have our break fast meal. The meal was great and I did a good job of not over eating and getting sick after my day of fasting. To top off the day, as we were getting on the bus to go back to Ashkelon, I saw my bus driver from brithright--Asa! It was so funny and random that he was once again welcoming me to his bus. Overall the day was wonderful and the most meaningful and pleasant day thus far in Israel.
pictures taken by Alex Kadis
No comments:
Post a Comment